Thursday, October 28, 2010

Dinner Bump: New date 11/6

So the day before Halloween is a lil to close for most people.  Due to popular demand, the "Burnt Offering" dinner is being moved to NEXT Saturday November 6th.  Please come and join me for an amazing meal, featuring some of the tastiest tid bits of Lilly, the wonderful pig.


Truffled Pork Belly Rillettes
pomegranates, parmigiano, greens

Rich Pork Broth with Pumpkin, Escarole, and Testa Raviolis
ears and tails

Apple Boudin Noir
arugula, kraut, roasted apples

Roasted Fresh Ham
Harvest Vegetable sauce, pickled fennel, potato gratin, housemade mustards

Butter lettuce Salad
prunes, goat cheese, crostini

Tarte Tatin
creme fraiche, ginger cardamom syrup

Dinner is still just $50 plus wine and tip.   dinner is full, join us for Cassoulet next sunday!

Where: Vineyard Table
When: 6:30 pm
What to bring: yourselves and your appetites.  funny stories?


Monday, October 25, 2010

A true Pop Up... in January

She: I want to write about Pop up Restaurants in Seattle for a National Publication...
He: very cool
She: you doing anything?
He: Should I?
She: Yes.

Ok.  Just for fun we are gonna do a lil Pop up in January with an a la carte type concept.  This will be a ton of fun and be at a stunning location in Fremont.  Menu goes a lil sumpin like this:

(half of the dining room will be open tables where guest can order ala carte and plates come in three sizes.  Or you can sit at the communal table for an Omakase type experience and that is $50)

 ala carte:

Wee $4
Not So Wee $8
Friggin Huge $14

Lamb Confit | black lentil dahl | fried okra

Truffled Egg | Brioche | Hedgehog Duxelle | Porcine “bottarga”

House cured Ham (36 month Berk)

“Cocida” : Chickpeas | Noses | Morcilla

Grilled Gizzard Confit | Grilled Chicken Heart Yakitori

Seared Foie | Gingerbread | pickled cherries

House Salt Cod | Tripe | Chipolatas | Tomato Stew

Crispy Cheeks | Apple Chutney | Brussel Slaw | Mustard Tarka

Fried Fishies | Sauce Verte



Plus I need to do desserts.  Dunno yet


Communal Table
 (basically all you can eat, done family style)
Group participation expected  
$50/person

Plus Wines, tax, tip.

 Sunday and Monday January 16, 17th 
Dinner reservation will open at 6pm and be set for every 30 minutes thereafter
Reservations required


Alchemy Dinner #4 Cassoulet!

Cassoulet, just the name conjures up images of fall leaves, French afternoons, cured meats, stories, wine, amazing scents coming from this smell box.

Every year I have had a big Cassoulet dinner experience.  It is what keeps me grounded to the Seasons.  November is for confit and cassoulet, pumpkin, salads, and prunes.  Call me boring, but for me it is a family tradition.  Please join me for a rockin evening:

Roasted Pumpkin Salad
goat cheese, cranberries, pepitas, sage vin

Gabriel's Cassoulet

Green Salad

Tarte aux Pruneaux

Dinner is of course served family style and is $40.  30 spots.  Wine will be available.  Probably Cahors and other deep funky reds.

Sunday November 14th, 6: 30pm


This one will sell out quick, so make sure to sign up soon.  Reserve Now!
Just in: Kimpton Hotels is offering Alchemy Dinners great rates for this Sunday!  Email here to find out more. *based on availability of course.

Dinner is in a secret (revealed upon reservation) space in Georgetown.
Starts at 6:30

Confit Clinic

When my son Rhone was born our at the time 6year old daughter Noelani refused to leave his side at the hospital... until I reminded her it was November and "You know what that means..."  she looked at me surprised and whispered: "Confit time?"

You know it is!  Time to make a lot of confit for the holidays.  This will be a two day extravaganza for a very small group (only 6 spots).  We will breakdown whole ducks as well as duck hind quarters.  We will make Duck confit, Pork belly confit and Gizzard confit.  We will also put up Duck Prosciutto, Pickled Pumpkin, Mostardo, and hopefully some pickled mushrooms.

All participants can expect to truly master the confit process.  We will probably make about 200# of confit and everyone will take home a couple of pounds.  Also, if anyone wants, I will order more legs for people to buy wholesale cases.  Each class will end in a full meal

When: Wed Nov 10, 6-9pm
Where: The Vineyard Table
How much: $80
How to sign up: Email me here!
Space available: 6 spots
please read our alcohol policy:


When: Thursday Nov 11, 6-9pm
How much: $80
How to sign up: Email me here!
Space available: 6 spots
please read our alcohol policy: 

New Classes for November

Wow, October was officially very very busy! Now I am way behind to post my listing of November events and classes. The following are open to the public, grab some friends and come and join me!!


Please follow the links to get more information. Can't wait to see everyone!

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Gabe's Laboratory: Katsuobushi... at Home?

In a recent recipe writing under taking, I was asked to research and design a method to make Bonito Shavings.  I adore them and was really enthusiastic about the project, but with some research discovered... OMG, they are seriously complex.  I didn't realize they were smoked, let alone fermented!  So just for fun, here is the recipe.  I had to hybridize it from a whole slew of sources.  If anyone has a better one, or has actually made it, please comment!  I can't wait to try it.



Katsuobushi
50 grams salt
1000 grams bonito, albacore, or mackerel






Prep fish: remove any bones and break fish down into 4 loins.  
Simmer: simmer gently in heavily salted water for 1 hour.  
Shock: remove fish from water and shock in icewater until completely cold.  Pat dry.
Pellicle: air dry, on a rack, in the fridge, overnight.
Hot Smoke: using oak chips and 1T sugar, hot smoke @150F for 1 hour.
Cold Smoke: using the same oak mix, smoke @70F for 5 hours per day, for 20 days.  Return 
product to fridge everynight.  Store wrapped in paper towels to maintain dryness.
Mold Spray: spray with bloomed MEK and let dry at room temp for 2 hours.  
Place under refrigeration in a sealed container @80% humidity for 2 weeks.  Turn daily. 
Clean: remove from fridge.  Product should be rock hard, and sound like wood when 
tapped.  Using the back of a pairing knife, scrape off and mold/black sooty mud.  
Store: packed in rice, in a glass jar in the fridge. 

Perhaps a fun project?  It would seem that this is the only copy of a recipe floating on the Inter-webs...
I want to vary the fish. I can see a yummy salmon product as well as smelt.  What if you left the smelt whole?  when they are that dry, would we mind the bones?  Dunno.  

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Mommy, why am I so Fat? It's John Howie's fault.

warning: full blown rant.  Needs editing and refining.  In a really bad mood.  

So I have a problem.  Overall, I am a red-blooded carnivore type American chef.  I scoff at spa food, whole wheat bread gives me the hibeejeebees and I actually throw up with brown rice. I opened THE SWINERY for pete's sake.  But we live in a day where there is a severe disconnect between the what is truly good for you on a real honest level and what is just feeding our most depraved needs.

I became a Chef because I believe in something.   Food is the most sacred thing we have in this country.  The direct link between the Earth, our Families, our society, and whatever your concept of God/ess is.  (Argue with me...I dare you).  We live in an era where we don't go to church, and if we do, it isn't because it provides a relevant answer for anything in our life, it is because our parents did.

Chefs are the new clergy.  There, I said it.  You know it is true.  We provide the soul sustenance without the guilt.  We bring the communities together, we provide the place.  And the best thing is that it's not about us.  It is about you.  We aren't/shouldn't be heroes, we are merely catalysts.

That being said, we have a responsibility to our communities.  I am sorry, if this isn't "a calling", then you shouldn't be doing it.  Denny's always needs another fry-guy.  We are supposed to feed the people... correctly.  We are supposed to give them what they want, but in a manner that feeds the whole person, the whole society, and the whole earth.

I started cooking when I was 17 because of two people: Greg Higgins and Rick Bayless.  Greg was my teacher, and Rick wrote something that means something to me: "My Soapbox: Reflections on Celebration in a Land of Plenty" (pg 285 Mexican Kitchen). excerpt:

"We're forgetting both what our bodies feel like when we eat old-fashioned small portions of fresh-by-necessity, everyday cooking, as well as what satisfaction there is in spending the whole day in the kitchen making huge quantities of inimitable, rich, dishes for the most special times" 

How have we gotten so off track?  Never before in the HISTORY OF MAN have we been so fat and unhealthy.  Food manufactures and global distribution of our food have conspired to destroy us.  Anyone who is remotely paying attention have noticed that a great portion of our societal ills stem from food in one way or another.  (Which makes sense as it is the most important thing we have in our culture). Most of us Chef-type-folk get it; we understand that WE ARE THE GOOD GUYS, it is our job to serve real food that make people pause and remember what it is to not just be a consumer.

Clearly not everyone agrees though.  Take a local "celebrity" chef: http://bit.ly/b4EhYm .  Really?  This is the single most disgusting thing I have seen outside of a 7-11 or a KFC.  But wait: the best part is there is already a chain named "The Heartattack Grill"!

I know it is completely anti-Seattle to directly express a negative opinion about food or chefs. I am aware that I am going to get unfriended on FB for this.  But really?  John Howie, you are a hack.  I would wish you a good career making up new culinary abortions for Taco Bell, but you would probably get a hell of a lot of people sicker.  Please leave the feeding people to the Chefs who actually care about the people.

Ok, I am going to go walk in my garden.  Pick some grapes.  breathe a little.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Best Bloody Borscht, EVER!

So I am blessed with little kids who love their vegetables.  Give Rhone a bowl of salad and he will ask for 3rds.  Leeks in vinaigrette=yummy.  Broccoli?  are you kidding?  they will beat you up for broccoli.

One of the absolute favorites however is beets. My kids go ape-shit for beets.  Roast em, pickle em, boil them, doesn't matter.  However, one of the principal reasons for their love of beets has nothing to do with the iron content... They love beets because of the effects.  Red tongue and teeth and the delight of the surprise the next day.  Yup.  Dinner table conversation is frequently graphic.

So last night, I had a hankering for Borscht.  It can be amazing, but usually as most people know, it really kind of sucks.  Just sort of disappointing.  I have never actually made borscht before, nor do I have a recipe, but hey, what the heck.

OMG, it was supernaturally good.  And best of all: 1 hour start to finish with kids underfoot!  Everybody ate three bowls.

Gabe's Borscht

1# chuckeye steak, cut into 1" cubes
2 T butter
1# beets, peeled, medium dice
1# yukon golds, peeled, medium dice
2 quarts beef stock
1/4 C grated horseradish (fresh, use a microplane)
5 cloves garlic, smashed
1 leek, small dice
1 can diced tomatoes
1 tsp dried marjoram
salt and pepper
finish with chives and dill
sour cream for each bowl

Season beef with salt and pepper, and dust with flour.  Saute in butter until golden brown.  Toss in pot.  Add everything except the chives, dill, and sour cream.  Simmer 1 hour. Add remaining herbs.  simmer 2 minutes.  Adjust seasoning.  Serve with sour cream.  Easy cheesy.

I think the secret is the fresh horseradish.  It mellows out all the way by the end, but adds an enormous complexity.  Also, the steak was really good, tender enough to have a pretty short cook time. I skimmed all the scum as well, btw.

Monday, October 4, 2010

Menu change for Sacrificio #3

As the leaves swirl all around and the sun plays peek-a-boo with the clouds, I sit here and think to myself: My oh my, Paella sounds like an odd thing to do at the end of October in a field with blood on my hands!  Ya know?

So came up with a more appropriate menu: I feel like Riesling, don't you?

Gougeres
Rustic Pate en croute
Sour pork soup with caillettes
Lentils de Puy
“Chocroute Garni”: bacon, pork loin, blood sausage, sausages, sauerkraut, potatoes
Pumpkin Gratin 
Marsala creamed chanterelles
Huge salad
Tarte aux Pruneaux

Pig cookies to take home

I am hungry now.  I am not sure what appeals to me so much about Caillettes.  They are principally a Provencal thing: bunch of the organs, meat, and fat, lots of herbs, and bread cubes, made into big meat balls and wrapped in caul fat.  Sounds gross right?  Nope, really good.  All roasted up and juicy.  I am going to wrap them in Savoy cabbage and set them in the middle of the soup bowl.  Then ladle the vinegar laced pork broth around .  

Come and join us in Rice.  It is going to be very fun.  This post references: http://alchemyinthekitchen-kitchenalchemy.blogspot.com/2010/08/to-kill-pig.html